As it was not much more than a hop, skip and a jump from Tallinn, I wanted to swing over to Riga, Latvia. There were no optimal train options for transit from Tallinn to Riga, so the decision was between air and bus. With a drive time of only four hours, flying wasn’t going to save much time. So as much as I admittedly try to avoid busses, I found an option with Lux Express. I hadn’t heard of Lux Express bus lines before and was skeptical of the name - generally if a company actually stuffs “luxury” into its business name, it’s trying to distract you from the cockroaches or weird smells coming from the back. However, I was really stunned by the quality for a 28-euro first-class bus trip!
The double-decker bus was sectioned off similar to a plane with first class and coach separated. In first class, the seats were huge - – twice as big as the seats in coach – so I wasn’t sitting next to anyone, and the chairs reclined with a footrest, WiFi, snacks and beverages. It was more comfortable than most coach flights I’ve had and could definitely compete with some nicer train routes. I thought, “Wow, I had no idea how far some bus travel has come!”
Rolling into Riga in my luxury bus, I was surprised to find how the city is a little treasure trove of varying architecture styles, which makes me a kid in a candy store! The bus station in Riga is really close to the Central Market, which, during the day, is filled with energy from the hustle and bustle of buyers and sellers spilling inside and out. The smells of ripe strawberries in one row, to fish of all shapes and sizes in the next, it’s an assault on the senses. The four fantastic buildings that house the indoor market stalls are monstrous in size. They were originally framed as hangars for the German Zeppelins during WWI. If Zeppelins sound familiar but you just can’t put your finger on it, think of the “Hindenburg,” which was a Zeppelin airship. These were massive! If you are in the market at closing, when the aisles have become quiet, you can look up through the floor-to-ceiling arched windows, close your eyes and just envision what it would have been like standing next to these airships. Gives you a few goosebumps. Now just don’t do that during peak time at the market unless you want to feel some shoving and elbows instead of goosebumps.
Outside of the market, look up into the skyline until you see a skyscraper with a pointed spire in the distance. I had heard that this building’s rooftop had wonderful, sweeping views of the city … and just happened to be nicknamed “Stalin’s Birthday Cake.” Ok, if anyone says the latter is not thought provoking, I think they are lying. For me, the name inherently conjured up images of funfetti cakes spilling colors of green, orange and pink, in contrast to the image of a paranoid, murdering dictator and that is … well … strange and awkward. Obviously, Latvia fell under the Iron Curtain rule, hence what was supposed to be a gift to Stalin is now just a very tall fragment of the Soviet time period. I had to explore it.
Now more locally referred to as the Latvian Academy of Science building, I walked into what felt like an old, rundown office building. If I wasn’t street clothes with bright blue Skechers, I would have been tempted to pose as an office worker and head straight to the elevators. But, not looking quite the part, I walked over to the security desk in the otherwise dark, abandoned lobby, paid a few euros and headed to the elevators. With just a little computer-printed sheet taped inside the elevator to let you know what floor to get off at, I could have easily spent my time getting lost in the different office cubicles of this building, but instead, I hit the top floor and then hooked up to the stairwell to keep going up. At least you can’t (or shouldn't) ever get too lost when looking for a rooftop.
Finally, at the peak, I stepped outside from the dim, lonely interiors to a wide expanse rooftop ablaze in sunshine overlooking every direction of the city. There was barely anybody up there, and for most of the time, I had the rooftop to myself. I really was curious what this Soviet building would have looked like in its heyday. It’s a bit like a hidden gem – although the rooftop and exterior have been spared much of the decades of turmoil, in the interior, you can feel the tiredness. At this point, I think it’s time to get the frosting out for an update.
Architecture in Riga is completely varied between districts and sometimes at the turn of a corner. From the Zeppelin hangars of WWI to Soviet-era skyscrapers on one end of the city, you can head across town to the Art Nouveau district. I found a little self-walking tour online to tell me where to go, so I zigzagged through Riga’s quiet center down Elizabetes, Alberta, Strēlnieku, Vīlandes and Rūpniecības streets. Riga’s Art Nouveau district is considered one of the largest preserved concentrations of these ornately designed buildings from the onset of the 20th century, even rivalling Art Nouveau districts in Paris. Looking at these buildings, you can feel the life and the color as varying gargoyles look upon you with supporting columns draped in floral designs spilling down the building. Such care, dedication and attention to detail to resurrect these homes. I would have loved to have sneaked a peek inside any of them, but not wanting to be arrested by Latvian police for trespassing, I could only try to glimpse them from the outside. It must be a bit awkward to live in these homes – at any moment, you could have a massive tour group peering inside your windows, so make sure to keep the bathroom door shut!
Walking through the parks back to the city center, I passed a giant monkey astronaut statue (spacesuit and all) on the way to Freedom Monument near Bastion Hill and Old Town. Riga never ceased to intrigue me with its expanse and variety. There is so much depth to the city and all its different areas. Most tackle the Old Town first but keep expanding outward and you’ll find more gems … maybe even another space monkey.
