Hungary
Budapest, June 2017
Accommodations
- Airbnb “BUDBNB 59/I BAJCSY”: Right around the corner from the Nyugati Railway Station, you can get anywhere easily either walking or with the metro. The host, Bettina, was super nice and had lots of maps and helpful tips on must-dos and where to go. The apartment has everything you need including a washing machine for your clothes in the bathroom. I also found an ingenious use of space in the bathroom via the clothing line rack hooked up to a pulley system. So you use the pulley to drop down the rack from the vaulted ceiling to hang your wet clothes on and then use the pulley to hoist the rack to the ceiling, clear out of the way. It’s the small things in life that make it great, right?! I would definitely stay here again.
Sites/Tours
- Széchenyi Thermal Bath: Originally built in 1913, the complex has grown to one of the largest spas in Europe. I really enjoyed the contrast of history and modern day upgrades here. A mixed balance of locals and tourists here at a reasonable price. To get here, take the M1 Yellow Underground to the Széchenyi fürdő stop. A couple other bath choices around the city I did not get to are the Gellert Baths (the most expensive) and Rudas Baths.
- M1 Yellow Underground: This is a sight in itself as this specific line predates 1900, and accordingly, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Word to the wise, you can buy your tickets at street level kiosks for the Underground and other Metro lines, but make sure to always keep your ticket handy, they love to check passengers off the trains and if you don’t have your ticket, you will be fined. There’s also a BKK transportation app you can download, but google maps honestly worked just as well for me.
- Chain Bridge: The most iconic bridge of Budapest and one of the most iconic sights in the city as a whole. The origins of the bridge go back to the mid 1800’s but, as with many things during WWII, was completely destroyed by bombing, so what you see now is a rebuilt version of the bridge. The bridge connects Pest and Buda with Gresham Palace guiding it from Pest side to Castle Hill on the Buda side. Make sure to view it in both day and night, the illumination of the bridge is wonderful.
- Danube Promenade: I think this deserves a stroll from at least Parliament all the way to the Great Market. There is a lot to take in walking promenade including more fun statues such as the girl sitting on the railing wearing what looks like a jester's hat. While walking, also keep your eyes peel for riverfront scubi-boxes. Generally these are found on trees and is literally a box for you to peer into. The image inside the box depends on the exhibition. While I was there, it was “The History of Street Photography in Budapest from Beginning to Present.” It gave such an awesome perspective of what the present day area looked like compared to early 1900’s.
- Pest City Walks: The amount of area to cover and things to see in Budapest is huge. I used the Rick Steves guidebook on my kindle to do a variety of city walks over the course of a few days, but you could also look up some free walking tours. Some shout outs include: Parliament, Holocaust Monument (you’ll see these shoes on the banks of the river), Imre Nagy Statue, Gresham Palace and Heroes Square.
- Monument to the Hungarian Victims of the Nazis: I call this out because it’s very controversial and many times you visit you’ll actually see a makeshift memorial to the victims of the WWII era with photographs and signs in front of the other monument. It’s absolutely worth going to see the makeshift memorial, which is very touching as you can read personal stories.
- Andrassy Ut: This is the Champs Elysees of Budapest. It’s a two mile stroll but worth it to window shop and also stop by the Opera House and House of Terror.
- Opera House: It was hard to capture the beauty from the exterior when I visited as there were giant advertisements hanging from the building. However, they were undergoing reconstruction to the Opera House so that may have been the cause of the less than desirable ads. I did a tour of the interior, which was interesting and not too long. Perfect for a rainy day. They also offer adds-ons to your ticket to be able to take pictures and/or hear a mini operetta at the end of the tour. Personally, I didn’t see anyone checking photo wristbands, seemed to be a waste of money, everyone was taking pictures. And because the operetta takes place on the grand staircase, you can hear it from the main entrance hall, so you don’t really need to buy that either.
- House of Terror: This houses exhibits and memorials to the activists against and victims of fascism and communist regimes in Hungary. I didn’t have an opportunity to go inside but I did take in the exhibits they had outside of the building, where you can find placards of photos and descriptions of the struggles. You will also find a chain representation of the iron curtain in front of the building.
- Great Market Hall: Built in 1897, this place is beautiful and massive with 3 levels to dig your heels into.
- Great Synagogue and Jewish Quarter: A bit hidden away behind some buildings, make sure to stop here but don’t forget to dress appropriately and confirm opening hours. Here at the Synagogue is also the Hungarian Jewish Museum and the Tree of Life Memorial Garden. The Jewish Quarter is not necessarily as rebuilt as other areas in the city, it has a bit of a grit feeling to it but it has a lot of depth not to be overlooked.
- Buda Delights: I know it’s hard to find time for Buda with everything in Pest, but don’t forget it! There’s a lot to explore! Walk up castle hill next to the funicular, or take the funicular up and explore, you get really nice views of the Chain Bridge and Pest. Then make sure to really wander around the ins and outs, including behind the castle. Head over to the Fisherman’s Bastion area where the Matthias Church stands resolutely tall.
- Legenda Boat Tour: I really wanted to see Budapest from the Danube River and found in my guide book that Rick Steves recommended the Legenda. I was kind of skeptical, even up to buying my ticket in person, but was very pleasantly surprised at the execution of this. There are sections of indoor vs outdoor, the seats are large and comfortable, there is audio and video accompaniment, but not required, and lastly, you get a free drink. So I was able to cruise the Danube comfortably with champagne in hand, enjoying the illumination of all the bridges and buildings.
Food
- Terv Presszó: Super casual, laid back atmosphere where posters and pictures of years gone by, line the walls. Come here to catch a band and have some Hungarian comfort food to stifle the stomach growling.
- Kolette Bistro: A small but upscale bistro serving a mix of French and Russian cuisine. This is a convenient place to also grab breakfast or have some tea on the way to the Great Synagogue. I found this place while needing shelter from the rain (on the way to the Synagogue), and I thought it was a nice surprise to come by.
- First Strudel House of Pest: Strudel has lots of history in Hungary, going back to the 15th century. You can get struel in lots of places in the city, but the First Strudel House of Pest also has historical undertones as it's housed in building that goes back to the early 1800’s. I went old school and had the apple strudel which was very rich. If you go with someone else, I recommend splitting the dish, I could barely finish mine.
- Local Korner: Awesome, low key, local pizza joint. Get custom pizzas and check out the tiny interior that has signatures and currencies plastered all over the walls.
- Zing Burger: Hey, when traveling, sometimes I just crave a burger and I found this place as it’s just down the road from Terv Presszo. The burger joint actually started off on the Budapest street food market at festivals and with a food truck. It’s now expanded itself with a couple storefronts, such as this one.