A pro on the Tallinn checklist is its proximity to Helsinki, Finland. I knew that while in Tallinn, I wanted to do a day trip over to Helsinki by boat. There are actually three different cruise lines that shuttle back and forth between Tallinn and Helsinki, so based on recommendations from my Airbnb host for which cruise line docked closest to Helsinki’s city center, I bought tickets on the Viking Line for a two-and-a-half-hour, bleary eyed, early morning, boat ride.
After docking in Helsinki, I was ready to hit the pavement with my Rick Steves guide in hand, but as I turned the corner to head outside the front doors, I saw the skies getting black. It started off as a drizzle, about five minutes later, it was a steady rain and within 10 minutes, an utter downpour, one of those hard rains where it seems to be raining down, sideways and up. If I was still groggy at boat docking, I was certainly awake now. I made it to the main city center area before I had to find shelter in a cafe for a couple hours to try and warm up and dry off. I got the largest mug of hot chocolate available and wrapped my hands around it with such a clench you’d think it was made of gold and I was afraid of someone stealing it from me.
I finally decided to go back outside and brave the rain, come hell or high water … literally. I took a boat to Helsinki, so I was going to see Helsinki whether Mother Nature wanted me to or not. So, begrudgingly, I bought a hop-on, hop-off bus tour. Although I generally am not a fan of these tours, at least I could get around and see some places without getting pelted in the face with rain.
I was comparing the hop-on, hop-off sites with my Rick Steves walk, and one of the stops I really wanted to see was Sibelius Monument, stop 14. I figured if I got off at Sibelius, I could also double back to the Rock Church, trailing up to the city center in time for the boat back to Tallinn. As I got off the bus, the weather also turned a corner and the rain finally stopped. The Sibelius Monument, dedicated to Jean Sibelius, was my favorite thing I saw that day. A formation of hundreds of metal pipes at varying lengths and heights, it’s quite mesmerizing to stand under and look up at the sky through the narrow focus of each metal tube. Ironically, this would have been one of the places I would be curious to see in the rain. What does it sound like here as rain drops bounce off and slide down the pipes? Is there a wind chime effect? Or the sound of rain on a tin roof? I’m not sure, but I spent about 30 minutes here and wished I didn’t have to leave it so soon.
Walking back toward the Rock Church, the clouds had completely broken and sun was streaming through. I wasn’t sure what I was expecting at the Rock Church, but it definitely just seemed like a dome-shaped roof in a giant mound in the ground … I didn’t really understand what I was looking at. The outside appeared more like a bunker up close than anything else. That said, I didn’t go inside but later searched for other photos of the Rock Church and can say that it appears far more impressive from an aerial perspective. Truly reflecting the size and the interior seems to be where it really shines. Part of the dome roof is opaque to bring in sunshine that reflects off the rock interior walls. I think I’ll have to add it back onto the exploration to-dos the next time I’m in Helsinki.
Speaking of next time, one of the other spots I was very interested to see but didn’t have time for was actually the next bus stop after Sibelius - the Olympic Stadium. I always try to seek out prior Olympic venues as I find the history and architecture (or what’s left of it) fascinating. The stadium was used in the 1952 Summer Olympics and is still used for other events today.
After a bit of perplexity at the Rock Church, the walk back through the city center to the dock was a far cry from that morning's walk. The market near the seaside was then bustling and the sun was streaming off the waterfront. It was an excellent turnaround to the day, and the boat trip back to Tallinn was smooth sailing, giving me time to ponder how to fit in another Helsinki trip in the future … arctic circle layover here we come!
